Great, we go out again, April 2025
Early March, we go to the meeting of the Dutch Society of St. James in Utrecht. We’re too early because I want to look at society’s old Camino books. I find some books I want to read and buy them. While reading those books, I already immerse myself in the mystical atmosphere of a pilgrim.
After the opening speech, we attend several lectures and presentations. Now we’re truly immersed in the world of the Camino de Santiago.
Although I told Dick last year I would never walk again, I changed my mind. I will walk: the “Camino Primitivo”, the oldest pilgrimage. After the tomb of Apostle James was discovered in the 9th century, this route was walked by King Alfonso II of Asturias. The camino primitivo starts in Oviedo and runs straight through the rugged mountainous region of Asturias and Galicia.
First stamp in my credential
My departure date isn’t yet known, but together with Ilse, Mirjam, and Diana I get my credential stamped. The next morning, we immediately look at travel options to Oviedo. We explore train and plane options, but Dick finally books the Flixbus for me.
I’ll leave on May 10th and arrive in Oviedo on May 11th. My pilgrim walk starts on May 12th. We also book a bed in a dormitory at the Green Hostel in the center of Oviedo
Dick publishes a geocaching event so fellow geocachers can wave me goodbye.
Then it turns out there are still three weeks left without any appointments, so after committing my walking route to paper, I sit down at the computer to come up with a camper route. Dick wants to go to Carcassonne, and I want to go to Andorra, so our end destination is determined. After a few days of painstaking puzzling, our route is ready.
Creating a route isn’t always easy. There must be something special to see, presence of geocaches is a plus, and of course, the location must have a parking where we can spend the night with our Frankia.Time flies. Every now and then I have a moment to walk a bit, actually I don’t walk enough but that’s the way it is. I also feel aches and pains all over my body. Normally they are not there but Dick says that happens every time I decide to go for a walk. It must be the excitement of having to perform again.
Luckily, we still have an opportunity to spend a pleasant evening with Hannah and Henk. We eat pizza made by Henk and they are very tasty. We are in their beautiful house in Noordwijk. As always, we chat and enjoy.
And then it’s Sunday, April 7 and we pick up the camper. Because we want to leave early and public transport runs less frequently on Sunday mornings, I take Dick to the storage facility by car, and then we drive back home. Everything we need is ready in the living room, of course, but even so, it always takes a few hours to get everything loaded and packed. We leave just before noon.
The sun is shining brightly in a brilliant blue sky and we’re happy. It’s not really warm as a chilly breeze is still blowing and the temperature doesn’t rise above 57 degrees Fahrenheit.
When I try to enter our destination, it turns out my hakuna doesn’t work. The Garmin won’t load maps or lost the maps on our previous trip. No matter what I try, it’s useless. All I see is a green area without tracks. Every now and then a road number appears. The device must remember something. But neither coordinates, addresses nor campersites appear. We must conclude that this rather old hakuna, from 2011, has broken down. Luckily, since we own a camper, we have two hakuna’s, and Dick can plot a route. I’ll have to do my navigation with Google Maps on my iPhone for the rest of our holiday. It’s annoying but that’s the way it is.
During the drive, we change destinations. We’re still heading towards Germany, but instead of driving to Dorsten, we veer off towards Dinslaken. There’s a large parking lot at Rotbachsee. But…here’s no place. When we check on the computer where we might be able to go, a camper leaves and we can park in the available spot. We’re lucky.
Of course, we first have coffee and then walk to the small village nearby. Everything is closed, but we do find a Turkish restaurant that’s open. Here I will buy dinner tonight. There’s also a geocache. To find this one we have to discover places around an old watermill using photo’s. We walk around the mill three times, checking out every spot and finding all the photos except one. Luckily, the cache owner responds to our distress call and tells us where the last photo is, so we finally find this cache.
Because the weather is so beautiful, I don’t really want to go inside yet and go for a walk around the lake. Dick stays in the camper. There are a few geocaches I want to find.
I’m back at 6 p.m. and a little later we have Turkish food. It’s delicious. We also call Frank who wants to know how to find the Camino address list. Tomorrow Jennifer will visit him. She will walk her first Camino, the Camino Portugues and can really use a list like this.
The fully occupied parking lot is now empty. Only a few campers remain to spend the night there. As dusk falls, we apply our insulating mat to the windshield. This proves to be a valuable addition, already it cooled down considerably but during the night, it cools down even faster, with temperature no higher than 35 degrees.
At night, the heater burns full blast to prevent the boiler’s frost protection from activating and draining all our precious water. To prevent this, the temperature in the camper must not drop below 8 degrees Celsius.
On Monday, April 7, we get up at 7:15am. The sun is already shining and the sky is blue. There seems to be less wind as it doesn’t feel particularly cold. Despite this, the temperature is just 37 degrees. After breakfast of currant bun and yam, we leave. This is easier than upon arrival now there are no cars in the large parking lot. We don’t have to drive very far today because our destination is Elsdorf, only 55 miles away.
RV parking Elsdorf
At 10:30 am. we pull into the parking lot near the sports fields. There are only two places to park but just like a month ago, only the truck is parked here. We are lucky and have a spot. Due to the trees, we don’t have TV reception in the marked spot, so we move our camper and drive outside the marked space. Now we have reception. We’ll see if this causes any problems. Of course, we have a coffee, and then Dick gets the bikes out of the garage, while I look for the bags, batteries, and other necessities like a fishing rod. After packing our bikes and carefully locking the camper, we leave. The sun is shining brightly, the sky is brilliant blue, and the thermometer stays at 59 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s perfect cycling weather. Using the geocaching route, we printed out before, we follow our way through the neighboring towns of Elsdorf. There are all sorts of challenge caches, and we’re really eager to find them. Besides finding a geocache, you must also meet other requirements to log this cache. Most caches are high up in trees, and we have to fish them out. Fortunately, the trees aren’t in full leaf yet, otherwise it wouldn’t be possible to see them.
Hambach mine.
We do stop at the end of the enormous lignite mine and admire its depths. The plan is to close this lignite mine by 2030 and fill the enormous hole of this Hambach mine with water from the Rhine. Given the mine’s size and immense depth (at least 1315 feet), flooding will take decades. It’s expected that there won’t be a Hambach Lake for another 20 years.
After cycling about 17 miles, we’ve found all the geocaches we wanted and arrive at the camper. While Dick puts the bikes away, I walk to the shop not far from the parking and buy the ingredients for our dinner: steak, potato salad, and cucumber. It all tastes good. After the sun set beautifully red, we put our insulation mat on the window. At night, it cools down enormously. With only 35 degrees it’s really too cold without insulation. We watch TV until we go to bed around 10 p.m.
Tuesday, April 8, we first text my sister Hannah. She’s celebrating her birthday today in Morocco with a friend. Then I walk to the Netto supermarket. Being so close to the shop, I can’t resist buying fresh rolls. After a good breakfast we leave. Dick has already put the bike batteries on the charger so they can charge while riding. The German highways aren’t particularly busy and weare making good progress. Only Trier is busy, but this city is always busy. We quickly leave the city behind us and drive the last part of our journey along the Saar.
At 1 pm we arrive in Mettlach. There are already a few campers here and a large bus is parked in our usual spot. Yes, we think we have a designated spot here. Fortunately, the bus leaves and we can park our Frankia in our spot. While Dick logs the enormous number of geocaches from Elsdorf, I walk to the center of town to pay 5 euro for the parking at the tourist information office. However, it’s closed, so after a short wait, I continue. I’ll stop by on my way back.
In the meantime, I can do some shopping at my favorite shops on the mountain. After all, I need to keep walking for my upcoming pilgrimage. Shopping is a good reason. After browsing extensively, I walk back. It’s now 4:50 pm and the tourist office is still (or again) closed. Then someone ask me if I need anything. It is the tourist information employee, and I can pay.
Diner in the Abtei Brau.
At 6:30 pm we walk to the Abtei Brau. It’s busy, but there’s still a table available, and we enjoy our meal with a glass of freshly tapped Abtei Brau beer. The food is good again. That’s why we keep coming back. After our meal, we enjoy the clear, starry sky, and after watching TV, we go to bed and sleep all night.
Once again, it’s a cold night, and I wake up early in the morning; I can’t sleep anymore. The summer duvet is too cold with the current temperatures. Fortunately, the blanket on our feet helps somewhat. At 7 a.m. we get up, and after a warm shower, I buy fresh rolls.
Yesterday Dick already filled a few watering cans, and we only need to fill two more after doing the dishes. Dick takes care of that while I empty the toilet cassette. Finally, we leave at 8:30 a.m.
The route to Hautvillers, France, takes us via Luxembourg, where we fill up with diesel. Then we drive quite a distance into Belgium before we arrive in the Champagne region with a large bend on narrow French backroads. When we arrive in Hautvillers, it turns out we’ve been here before but then drove on.
RV parking Hautvillers
The car park is a strip along a narrow road where you can park. Actually, more suitable for narrower campers. However, there’s no one here now and we can park in the first spot. When a passing tractor can pass us, we decide to stay. It’s already 1:30 pm and we skip coffee, immediately grab our bikes and soon cycle through the narrow, steep streets of Hautvillers. We pass one champagne house after another, and I definitely want to go back here to sample some champaign. The slopes in the town are so steep that we regularly have to dismount and continue on foot. Even with turbo mode, we can’t reach the top.
Non-cyclable forest paths
Finally, we find ourselves at the foot of a vast forest. We trudge uphill on paths that are practically impassable with a bike. Large boulders lie scattered across the paths, thick branches and even entire trees regularly block our way. Large caterpillar tracks have carved deep furrows in the paths made of dirt and forest workers have savagely chopped down all the trees and left them where they were. All in all, the paths are absolutely impassable. But I want to find the geocaches. At cache number 5 we see with relief that the path changes. Although smaller they are also sturdier and no longer a swampy mass you sink into. Now the many trees appear to obstruct a good progress by bike. They are so close to the narrow path that turning corners is impossible. Unfortunately, the path quickly turns into a swamp covered with leaves, occasionally with deep mud holes and peppered with many more felled trees.
Not possible on the bike
Once again, our journey becomes a walking expedition in the deep mud and we decide to call it a day and head back to the camper.
I take a quick look at the Dom Perignon champagne house and then I am back. It’s a miracle we didn’t fall on the dizzying descent down the steep, cobbled forest path.
Even though there are still plenty of geocaches here, they’re absolutely impossible to do with a bike.
With a beautiful red sunset, we look out over the vineyards, still in their winter twilight. We don’t go to bed late. We’re both rosy from the fresh air and the bright sun.
We get up at 7:30 am the next morning, April 10. It’s 45 degrees, but the sun already shines and the sky is blue. Because we’ve discovered a bakery in the center of the village, I walk there, and a little later we enjoy a fresh baguette. After endless washing up dishes, I can’t believe we make so much mess every day, we leave this beautiful town just north of Epernay and head south.
Everywhere in the vineyards, people are tending the grapes, and I take pictures. Besides vineyards, we regularly pass beautiful yellow rapeseed fields. Quite a few roads are closed, so frequently we have to take detours. But finally, at 1:15 pm, we arrive at the wine museum in Chablis. We’re allowed to spend the night in the parking lot in front. When the museum opens at 2 pm, we decide to go inside. It’s a private museum with some educational films about the Chablis terroir. It clearly explains how the vineyards are prepared for the final harvest and the winemaking process. In the museum are tools that contribute to the winemaking process, and it’s interesting. We walk around the museum and are alone.
Chablis wine tasting
Eventually we’ve seen everything and we get a tasting of different Chablis wines and a Burgundy. Personally, I prefer Burgundy; it’s fruitier. Chablis only has white wines, and since we drink more red wine, we’re not tempted to buy the Chablis. Besides, I prefer the white Rioja Reserva that Hannah and Henk gave us. While browsing the museum shop, we see an Opinel picnic set. I immediately fell in love with it. We have Opinel knives for ages because they’re incredibly sharp and a joy to use. This set also includes a fork and spoon that fit perfectly into the knife head. In this way it essentially gives you a complete set of cutlery. Perfect for taking on my pilgrimage. Dick also thinks it’s a good and useful set, and he don’t hesitate to buy it for me. I’m very happy with it.
While Dick spends the rest of the afternoon logging our geocaches found in Hautvillers, I walk to the center of Chablis. Apart from the beautiful towers at the entrance to the old town, there’s not much to see, so after another visit to the local supermarket, I walk back and pass a kebab shop. In the evening, I walk back to get dinner. The food tastes good. We put our insulation mat in front of the window again. Despite the beautiful weather during the day, at one point it was 64 degrees, it cools down quickly when the sun set blood-red.
Friday, April 11, we get up at 7:30 am. The temperature is already 45 degrees and the sun is shining. Yet it still feels very cold. We have breakfast with the last of our Easter bread and then leave. Once again, we encounter roadworks everywhere on our way, so we must follow quite a few deviation signs. After seeing a sign along the road for “Bernadette Sanctuary,” we decide to abandon our route and continue to the city of Nevers. There’s a car park next to a canal near the Loire.
View at Nevers and river Loire.
It’s 12:30 pm and we grab our bikes to explore the center of Nevers. At the river Loire we stop to admire the fast-flowing river and then cycle through the medieval streets to the large cathedral in the center. Like almost everywhere in France, the church is open and we can go inside. Only a small part of the church is accessible, a large section is currently undergoing restoration. But the magnificent stained-glass windows are visible. We don’t find the scenes in the windows particularly appealing, but the bright sun fills the entire interior with color. Simply beautiful.
Bernadette don’t like pictures
After leaving the church, we pass a magnificent palace and then, using the map inside the cathedral we photographed, we find our way to the Bernadette Sanctuary. It takes a bit of searching, but finally we are in the courtyard of a large complex. The first thing we see is a replica of the Lourdes grotto, we’re probably on the right track. After a bit more searching, we find a building and enter it. We are in a church where Bernadette’s body lies in state. It is there for over a century and was found complete, the body has not decayed. It’s remarkable and incomprehensible. Now only her face and hands are covered in a layer of wax.
After some time, we leave this chapel and go outside. We wander through the streets of this old town and then cross the Loire bridge again and arrive back at our camper shortly after. Dick starts cleaning the windows. This is no unnecessary luxury at this time of year, when thousands of insects are smashing against the windshield. I walk in the neighborhood to look for a cache. I don’t find it, but it’s good that I walk some miles. In the streets it’s busier because there’s a stadium nearby where a rugby match will soon be played. The entire area quickly fills with cars and groups of supporters walk by. There’s no boring place here on the canal.
We get up at 7 am on Saturday morning, April 12. We don’t want to arrive too late in Issoire. That car park isn’t very big and fills up quickly.
I think I have a bladder infection because, unlike usual, I slept poorly, and all the signs of a bladder infection are showing up. Luckily, I still have antibiotics the doctor gave me when I walked the Camino last year. Then I didn’t need this medication, now I do.
We leave at 8:14 a.m. Unfortunately, the blue sky quickly disappears, and dark clouds gather. Soon we’re driving through rain. Sometimes heavy rain, sometimes more drizzle.
Rapeseed fields with the Put de Dome in the background
Just before we approach Clermont-Ferrand, all the clouds disappear and, in their place, blue sky appears. Great, because now we can see the magnificent towering Puy de Dôme.
40 Years ago, when we were here on a cycling holiday, Dick and Paul conquered this peak. I still don’t understand why I didn’t join them. The delicious ice cream sundaes in the town center were probably too tempting, and it was more fun to stroll through town with Inge. I’m still a little jealous of Dick, who managed this cycling performance.
We drive a large part of the way on a four-lane highway. Only for the last stretch we turn inland, because roadworks and the resulting endless traffic jam compensate for this detour more. In Issoire, there appears to be plenty of space, and we can choose where to park the Frankia. That doesn’t happen often. We take the first spot. I’m curious, and from here, I have the best view of everything around me.
After a cup of coffee, we earn that after driving 124 miles. Dick take our bikes while I gather all our laundry. Once the bicycle bags are packed and the washing powder is loaded, we cycle through narrow alleys to the town center.
Next to the parking is the supermarket are also washing machines, but I’ve had two bad experiences with them. The drying process in particular leaves much to be desired, so I prefer to cycle to the laverie in the town center.
Laundromat next to the PV-parking
Once Dick has unloaded our bikes, put the laundry in the washing machines and help to add the detergent, I can pay and the laundry process start. We are just on time because there are still four machines available. Half an hour later, the laverie fills up, and all the machines are occupied.
Finally, after three hours, everything is clean and dry. We load everything back into our bicycle bags and cycle back. Of course, Dick is back in time at the laverie to help with the folding process. Back home, we store everything and make our beds with clean linens. We love that.
While I supervise the entire washing process, Dick cleans and vacuums the camper with the result that it’s wonderfully clean inside too. It’s late afternoon when we need to do some shopping at the adjacent supermarket. Then I tackle the overdue paperwork.
The parking lot is now completely full. Yet, there’s a constant stream of campers coming and going, each one has to turn around empty-handed.
Pizza tonight
Around 7 pm I pick up a pizza from a restaurant around the corner. We can’t order earlier because the oven needs to warm up first. This isn’t the first time we’ve taken a pizza from here, and again it’s a good choice. We order a pizza named “carnivore”; we both really belong to that category of eaters.
Sunday, April 13, when we wake up at 8 a.m., we hear the rain tapping on the roof. It’s a sound we haven’t heard in a long time. Luckily, the rain stops briefly after breakfast when we dump and fill up with water. As soon as we’re really on our way, it starts raining again. The distance to our next destination is only 57 miles and at 11:30 am we arrive in Le Puy-en-Velay. I have no idea if we can park in the parking lot I have in mind, because the website indicates the maximum length here is 23 feet. When we arrive at the foot of the high rock on which a chapel is built, there are two spaces available, and our almost 26 feet long camper fits here. Wonderful, because I really want to stay here. I’ve long wanted to visit this oldest French pilgrimage site. It’s built amidst a spectacular volcanic landscape with steep rock formations.
Atop one of the rocks stands the statue of Notre Dame de France, and on the other rock, at the foot of which we are now parked with our Frankia, is the Chapelle Saint Miguel d’Aiguilhe. This 10th-century chapel is only accessible via a long, steep staircase.
After coffee, we climb up into the upper town. Of course we want to visit the cathedral. Especially since I plan to walk the oldest Camino, the Camino Primitivo, on May 12th. I also want to climb the Aiguilhe, or rocky peak, but when I find out the entrance fee is €8.50, my enthusiasm wanes. Besides, Dick will never climb this 260 feet high rock via endless steps, and now we can walk to the cathedral together.
Our path leads over bumpy cobblestones. We climb steeply and get lost in the maze of narrow medieval streets. After asking the locals, we finally choose the right path and end up at the foot of the 145 steps to the cathedral entrance. We slowly climb to the top, from where we have a beautiful view of the old town below.
We chat with some pilgrims and then walk into the cathedral.
Lighting a candle near Apostel Santiago.
The first thing I see is the statue of Saint Jacques, my Apostle Santiago. Of course, we light a candle and with tears streaming down my cheeks, I thank God for allowing us to be here. For me, it’s a kind of start of my new pilgrimage. Although I’m not leaving from here but from Oviedo in northern Spain, a visit to this famous and oldest French pilgrimage site is nevertheless very important beforehand. We walk around, listen to the choir rehearse with the church organ, and finally leave the church. We walk down a side street. Then we hear singing. Looking up, we see a large procession of people walking toward the entrance of the Cathedral.
They are the pilgrims of hope.
In the context of the Holy Year 2025, Pope Franciscus has chosen “pilgrims of hope” as the central theme. It is a call to believers worldwide to journey as pilgrims, driven by hope. The logo for this Holy Year consists of four stylized figures in different colors walking together, guided by a cross and anchor. It symbolizes a shared pilgrimage of humanity guided by faith and anchored in hope. These “pelerins de l’espoir” walk from all over the world to Rome.
In addition to pilgrimages to Rome, pilgrimages are organized in various dioceses of the Catholic Church in France. Usually on weekends and often a church is the final destination.
Today, one of these French pilgrimages arrives at the cathedral of Le Puy-en-Velay. No wonder they arrive here, as this place has been a place of pilgrimage since the Middle Ages. Pilgrims came here to venerate the Black Madonna in the cathedral and from this cathedral runs the Via Podiensis, one of the four traditional French pilgrimage routes that connects to the Camino Frances via the Pyrenees.
I look at Dick. He doesn’t even consider climbing steeply back up to the cathedral, but he gives me a push. I must go. I give Dick a kiss and walk upstairs. There I join the back of the procession. Everyone waits until we can enter the church. After a while, there’s movement, and we’re allowed to climb the last steps. On either side are the clergy, including the bishops, they sing to us and wave palm branches. We climb between them and enter the church. It’s a very special feeling and I have to cry.
Inside the church, I find a spot in front of the church and the service begins. The Easter story is told, and of course, there’s a Eucharist celebration. At the end of the service, we receive the blessing. A blessing that has resounded through this cathedral for centuries and consists of words of trust for those leaving. The service touches me.
Clergymen waving palm branches
After all the clergy walked in procession through the church, I go to the church shop where I get a stamp. I don’t have my pilgrim’s passport with me, but I do have a blank piece of paper, so I’ll stick this stamp in there later. I leave the church and walk outside. First to the foot of the statue of Notre Dame on the rock, but I have to pay here too, so I walk back. Of course I get lost in the maze of winding, narrow, steep medieval streets, but eventually I reach the steep road that leads down to our Frankia. Dick had a lot of climbing and descending today. Not exactly good for his ankle. Back home, I tell him everything and then walk a bit to the other side of town to find a restaurant. According to Dick, there’s a Quick restaurant. I take a picture of the menu, walk back, pick up our insulation bag and then order and pick up our dinner. This way, after all I manage to walk a few extra miles.
Illuminated chapel on the rock peak
The rain that had been lingering all day has thankfully subsided, and there are even glimpses of blue sky on the horizon. We enjoy our burgers. It was a good idea of Dick to buy them. After dinner, dusk falls quickly, and once it’s dark, we enjoy the beautifully illuminated Chapelle on the rocky outcrop above us. We sleep well because it’s very quiet here.
When we wake up at 8 am on Monday, April 14, the world is very small. A thick fog envelops us, and the rocky outcrops are no longer visible. After breakfast, we leave. We slowly climb into the surrounding mountains, and the last glimpse of the two rocky outcrops partially rising from the mist is something I will not forget. It’s a mysterious sight. Unfortunately, we can’t stop taking pictures.
We drive mostly on four lane roads to the south and at 12:30 pm we arrive in Bozouls. The village is built around a spectacular horseshoe-shaped gorge carved by the Dourdou River. There’s still plenty of room in the parking lot at the edge of the village and we park our Frankia. We drink coffee, we really need that after this 117 mile drive. Then we walk to the deep gorge.
The gorge in Bozouls.
A trail runs along the top, offering panoramic views into the depths of the gorge. It’s a remarkable sight. After completing the entire path to the end of the village, we walk back, and then I decide to look for some geocaches, some of which are located at the bottom of the gorge. Dick stays home because he will not walk due to his painful ankle. Armed with a GPS, backpack, and water I walk to the path that leads into the gorge. It takes a bit of searching, but finally I find the right path.
The geocaches take me through the entire gorge. The walk is quite enjoyable.
Sometimes I must climb steeply, go back to the edge and then descend again on narrow paths lined with large boulders. It’s certainly good practice for my approaching Camino. The path is not good for bikes and certainly not for Dick to walk.
The surroundings feel like I’m walking on the Camino, it’s very familiar. It’s also beautiful to walk on the gorge floor. Because the water of the Dourdou River is quite high, I have to cross a wobbly suspension bridge several times. This is less pleasant, especially since there’s quite a bit of space between the planks of the bridge. But it’s better than crossing the raging river via steppingstones as I experience a little later. These stones are quite far apart and the rushing water washes over the stones with force. However, with help of a thick branch I manage to find the courage to take the steps and reach the other side safely.
At the bottom of the gorge
There, under the watchful eye of a donkey, a geocache is hidden. I have to step back on the same route, but luckily, I manage without plunging into the raging water. The last geocache is at the church built on a hill in the gorge. It’s a steep climb, and then, after enjoying the view, I find out that I must descend to the gorge floor to reach the village. Eventually I climb and descend for hours, finally I arrive safely back at the camper at 6 pm. As if I have not walked enough, I also go to the supermarket a bit further down the road to buy dinner. It becomes a salad with a baguette and after many hours outdoors it tastes delicious. It remains relatively quiet at the parking.
When we get up at 8 am on Tuesday, April 15, the sun is shining, but there are also many clouds. We fill up with diesel at the supermarket. Unfortunately, the low price of 1.44 euro yesterday is gone, and we have to pay 5 cents more. Nevertheless, we fill up and continue our journey south. We regularly drive on narrow roads. To reach Carcassonne we have to cross a mountain range. We experience a moment of difficulty when a huge truck blocks our way up a narrow mountain road. He gestures us to stand on a patch of grass. We refuse, as we don’t want to end up in the soft ground. We stubbornly remain standing at the edge of the narrow road. After some more furious looks and honking, the driver finally backs up a bit and then speeds past us. We can continue our way. After much climbing and descending we see the Cité of Carcassonne looming in front of us. This medieval city is one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Europe. The city is surrounded by double walls spanning almost 1.8 miles and has 52 towers. Even from a distance, it’s an impressive sight to see this city. The view of the fortress brings a knight’s tale to life. After a short detour we arrive at the parking next to the campsite. There’s a spot and we pay and park the Frankia. Thankfully the rain has stopped. However, it’s still very cloudy and only 50 degrees.
Walking along the river Aude.
After a cup of coffee we walk over the path along the river Aude to the Cité. It’s a beautiful path, and along the river stand magnificent old trees. And then the contours of the old city loom high above us. We climb a steep, bumpy, cobbled path to the city gates. It’s impressive to enter these gates, as people have done this for centuries. Inside the walls you stroll over cobblestones, past half-timbered houses, old inns, and countless restaurants. The streets are strikingly wide. And it’s bustling. There are many, many tourists. The terraces are empty however because of an icy wind.
We wander endlessly through the streets of the old, fortified city and, of course, visit the Basilica of Saint-Nazaire. There are beautiful stained-glass windows, but even here there are many tourists, so unlike other churches, there’s no peace here. The regional dish is cassoulet, a casserole with beans, duck, sausage, and bacon, but that’s not a dish we enjoy, so we continue our walk.
Cité Carcassonne.
By 4:30pm we have seen most of the streets, looked along the walls. This time we will not visit the castle or the ramparts. We walk back and after 3.5 miles we are back. I think the spot next to us is much nicer and Dick reluctantly move the Frankia. To warm up we drink coffee. Ther cold froze us to the bone. But our trip to this remarkable medieval city is definitely worth it.
At 6 pm it starts to rain and it rains harder and harder. We are glad we don’t have to go out anymore. We were so lucky today with the weather and while walking around it was dry.
Wednesday, April 16, we don’t get up until 8:15 am. The sky is dull and gray, and the clouds hang low. It is only 49 degrees, but dry. After breakfast, we dump our gray and black water and fill up with clean water; a 10-minute refill is included in the price of the parking.
Then, at 9:50 am we leave. Our hakuna wants us to drive through Spain to Andorra, and an alternative route even takes us along the Mediterranean coast.
The culprit is a 10.2 feet high tunnel in the road to Andorra. Our Frankia is 10.3 feet high and the hakuna refuses to indicate that road via Foix. However, we’ve driven this road several times before, so we ignore our hakuna. As always, we can drive through the tunnel. After the town of Ax les Thermes the mountain road begins to climb more and more and at an altitude of 4900 feet we drive in the snow. A little later, we’re also enveloped by the clouds and the beautiful views this route offers are practically nonexistent. We can only see a few feet ahead. The snow is getting thicker and thicker along the road. The trees along the road bend under thick layers of snow. It’s a beautiful sight. Fortunately, the road is dry and clear of snow.
Snow on the “Pas de la Casa”.
We pass the “Pas de la Casa ski area” at 6565 feet but the slopes are invisible. The road climbs more and more steeply and we crawl up like a snail. Unfortunately, the snow prevents us from stopping at the mountain pass at 8200 feet and we descend. Just before Grau Roig, where the Grand Valira ski area begins, the sky clears.
The clouds climb higher and higher, and we stop briefly to watch the skiers on the slopes. We also hear dogs barking. Deep below us in the valley, we see dog sleds moving across the snow. A beautiful sight. After taking many photos in the snow, we descend to the other side of Andorra, a 14 miles descent. Soon, the clouds disappear, and blue sky and sunshine appear. The temperature also rises, and instead of 1 degree, we now see 59 degrees on the thermometer.
Just a picture in the snow
When we arrive in Sant Julia de Loria, the sign behind the River supermarket still threateningly indicates that overnight stays are prohibited. That was also the case end of October 2024. Then we could spend the night here without any problems. So, we give it another try. The parking is very crowded, but we find a narrow spot where our Frankia just fits. Then we walk to the store. It’s a quarter past two, and at this hour it’s still possible to have lunch in the store’s restaurant. We order a burger, its finger licking good. After this meal, we don’t need to eat again today. Of course, after the copious meal, we stroll through the store, specifically the non-food section. Who knows what nice things we’ll find. As I browse the aisles, I see that Dick isn’t exactly enjoying himself. He’s not a shopaholic and we say goodbye. Dick walks back while I look around every nook and cranny of this store. I love this. Unfortunately, there’s nothing I really buy. Except for two battery-powered toothbrushes. Our old ones are at least 15 years old and need replacing. We’ve noticed that battery-powered toothbrushes are much more practical, especially in a camper, we never plug in. After buying two packs of toilet paper, it’s nice and thick, I walk back too. We listen to music and I write on my IPad. At 6 pm it rains briefly, but luckily it clears up later and stays dry.
Andorra la Vella.
Thursday, April 17, we get up at 8:15 a.m. That’s late, but we’re in no hurry because we’re staying here today as well. After showering, I walk to the bakery and buy a fresh barra (baguette). It tastes delicious. After washing up, we close the Frankia and walk to the bus stop on the street. We don’t have to wait long because bus L1 arrives quickly and we can board. The route is busy with people waiting at every stop to get in. Finally, we arrive in the center of Andorra la Vella. The sun is shining, and even though a chilly breeze is blowing, it’s wonderful to stroll through the shopping streets. Today is my shopping day and I have quite a few things on my wish list. Even though we’re wandering in and out of shops, do window-shopping and climb endless escalators in malls, I can’t find the much-needed hoodies, lightweight shorts and long pants, and a headlamp. And that’s not Dick’s fault, because he’s faithfully following me and doesn’t complain a second.
Finally, we have coffee on a terrace and enjoy the sunshine. Then we slowly walk back to the bus stop. There, we say goodbye. Dick takes the bus back, and I walk the almost 6 miles back to Sant Julia de Loria.
Back to the RV parking at River Center.
The weather is still beautiful and out of the wind it’s even warm, so it’s pleasant to walk. However, the road is constantly downhill because the capital, Andorra la Vella, is slightly higher than Sant Julia de Loria. That’s quite a strain on my calves. Just before the entrance to our village, is another outlet. Of course I go inside. Unfortunately, today isn’t my shopping day, because I can’t find what I want to buy. I leave this shop empty-handed as well. Finally, I pick up some food at the supermarket where we’re parked: cauliflower, potatoes, and a burger. I assure you that the meal is delicious. Once again, we remain undisturbed in the parking lot. Only vehicles with Andorran license plates receive a warning that they are not allowed to park here. The foreigners, who provide a large part of the income, are left undisturbed. In the evening, we watch the Passion on TV, it’s Maundy Thursday.
Friday, April 18, our alarm wakes us at 7 am. We have breakfast with orowheat bread. This seed-filled bread is available not only in America but also in Spain. Our first stop yesterday was for this bread. We love it. Then we wash the dishes, go to the dump station and fill up with water. It’s so early that we don’t have to wait. When everything is empty/full again, we drive to the fuel pump at the front of the store. If you buy in the store, you get an extra 5% discount on fuel, which means the price of €1.19 per liter of diesel is even lower. Once our car tank and portable tank is filled with diesel we leave.
Less than 1.5 miles further, we cross the border into Spain. Of course, we are stopped and have to tell what we bought. The two bottles of wine and the Baileys don’t really impress, and we are allowed to continue. To cover the distance to Jaca reasonably quickly, we first have to head south until the road bends west. Our plan was to travel directly from Andorra back north, but we have a few extra days because we drove faster to the south and we decide to visit the church in Saint Jean Pied de Port. ChatGPT is much better at searching than I am and says there’s a mass at 8:30 am on Easter Sunday. I think that is a special day to visit. That’s why I adjusted our itinerary, and now we’re heading to Jaca and will arrive in Saint Jean Pied de Port on Saturday. The weather is beautiful, the roads are wide and quiet, and we’re making steady progress.
RV parking in Jaca.
We arrive in Jaca early in the afternoon. The entire car park is full; there are even campers parked along the roadside. That doesn’t look well. When I get out, one of the campers is about to leave, so we wait patiently. Ten minutes later, the Spaniard leaves. We thank him and his wife and wish them a safe journey. We can park and stay here for the night.
It’s really good, because ChatGPT also found out that there’s a large procession in Jaca tonight: the Procession of the Holy Father. After all, in Spain is the Semana Santa (Holy Week) and tonight on Good Friday is the most solemn and symbolic procession. It will pass through the entire historic center. Since we’re here anyway, we can’t miss such a special event.
Dick doesn’t really need to see the procession tonight, but he does want to explore the center with me. After coffee, we walk to the elevators that take us up to the upper town. We could just as well walk straight up, as we have to detour so much. But it’s quite an experience to take the elevators to the upper town. The small streets are very crowded with people.
The service in one of the Cathedrals has just ended and we walk inside.
In this church of Santiago, we want to thank the Apostol. After all it’s given to us to enjoy this trip together. Then we continue our walk. There are tables everywhere in the streets and they fill up with people. One table is still empty, and we’re invited to sit down. And then, like all the Spaniards around us, we have lunch. Of course, we also enjoy a glass of wine. It’s a bit chilly; 57 degrees and the wind make it feel colder, but it’s still pleasant to eat outside. The food tastes good, and we savor this unexpected meal.
Arrows point the way.
After the meal, we walk through the narrow medieval streets. Everywhere there are arrows to be seen, indicating the Camino route. The main cathedral is closed. Next to this cathedral is a small shop where we see some nice hoodies. Dick needs some new ones, but who buys a new hoodie? Of course, Tita. But just to be clear, there was not really a nice hoodie for Dick. We leave the shop; I am happy with a new purchase. We slowly walk back to the camper which is now basking in the sun. The weather has become nice. We’re comfortably indoors and constantly see campers driving by, searching in vain for a spot. And then, it’s 6:30 pm, I go out again. This time to walk into town. ChatGPT has once again been very helpful, pointing out the places the procession will pass.
The drummers walk at the front.
I walk to the cathedral, and just in front of it, on Calle Obispo, many people are standing. When I ask them, they say it’s a good spot for the procession. So, I will stay here, on the corner near the cathedral, another hour and a half to wait. While more and more spectators gather along the edge of the street, the first procession passes by at 7 pm. Huge drums are beaten, and everyone is dressed in the characteristic pointed hats that conceal their faces.
These are capirotes, worn during Semana Santa processions by members of brotherhoods, the cofradias. Wearing them is a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages, when the Inquisition forced people to wear penitential clothing. Originally, the capirotes were intended to keep the wearer anonymous during penance. Sins and repentance didn’t have to be publicly visible. That was something between you and God. And the point that points upward, toward heaven, is a sign of longing for redemption and connection with the divine. The brotherhoods adopted them, but as a voluntary expression of faith, penance, and/or gratitude.
Nowadays the participants wear their capriotes as a deeply religious symbol.
To outsiders, however, it looks mysterious, even uncomfortable.
Procession in Jaca.
After the drummers return to the cathedral the real procession begins at 7:30 pm, half an hour earlier, possibly due to the expected bad weather. I enjoy the procession. The entire Way of the Cross is depicted: the Last Supper, the night in the olive grove, the capture of Christ, the condemnation, the crucifixion, the descent from the cross, the weeping of Mary, and the entombment. People carry crosses with Christ’s last words, and groups of drummers constantly appear. They make you wish you have earplugs, the enormous drums sound so loud.
All in all, it’s very impressive, and I can’t get enough of it. I take many photos and videos. At 8:30 pm the procession ends, and I walk with hundreds of people through the narrow streets of Jaca. Everyone is still sitting outside at tables, eating, drinking and chatting. It’s cheerful everywhere, and the cold doesn’t seem to bother the Spanish. And yet the thermometer remains stuck at 53 degrees.
Fortunately, I find my way back home. The procession ends above the camper site, so I didn’t have to walk all the way to the cathedral. Back home, I tell Dick all about the procession in great detail, but he’s less interested because he’s watching a quiz. Luckily, I already sent him some videos and photos, so he already saw some of the procession.
At 10 pm. it starts pouring rain. It wouldn’t have been so nice if this downpour had started earlier. My eyes are closing, and I go to bed.
Saturday, April 19, we wake up around 7:30 a.m. and get up. After a good breakfast of orowheat bread, we wash the dishes and then drive to the end of the parking lot where we can dump and fill up with water. It’s drizzling a bit, but we don’t get really wet. Then we put St Jean Pied de Port in our hakuna.
There are two routes, one through France and one through Spain. I prefer Spain because we can buy diesel cheaply that way and we leave, heading west. First, we drive over a major four-lane highway and then we turn off into the mountains. We take a different road than the one we normally drive to St. Jean Pied de Port, but then we come from Pamplona, a different direction. This road stays flatter and climb more steadily than the other. Just before Auritz, we join the 135, and from there it’s a short distance to Roncesvalles. We pass the Capilla del Sancti Spiritus.
This small square chapel is the oldest building in Roncesvalles, dating back to the 12th century. According to tradition, it was built on the spot where Charlemagne’s fallen soldiers were buried after the Battle of Roncesvalles in 778, where the legendary knight Roland was killed.
Roncesvalles is a stop for pilgrims crossing the Pyrenees on the Camino de Santiago.
The chapel along the road served as a place where masses were celebrated for deceased pilgrims who died in the nearby hospital. Their remains were interred in the ossuary (bone pit) above which the chapel stands.As we drive further the wet snow turns into rain. Sometimes it’s dry for a while.
We drive to the parking in St. Jean Pied de Port, but it’s closed. There’s no one there either. So we drive back to a parking on the other side of town. Here is plenty of space but there are lots of trees and the concrete slabs where you have to park are actually a bit too short for our camper. But we have a spot and TV reception. After coffee, we stroll down Rue Citadelle, the main street in St. Jean, and of course we (I mean I) can’t resist the pilgrim shop.
Again the Pilgrims shop.
We walk inside, and I find all sorts of things: a thin zip-off pair of pants, some nice shorts, an ultra-lightweight daypack, and a light rain suit. We finally leave the store penniless. As a gift from the owner, I receive a nice necktie (costing 21 euro). I am glad about this present. Then we walk to the Carrefour to get food for tonight and tomorrow. Fully loaded we walk back. It’s bustling with pilgrims everywhere, and we see many Asians. At home, we eat the salad with a baguette and at 7:30 pm. I walk to the church. I’m too early for the Easter Vigil, but I do have a nice spot at the front of the church. It turns out I’m sitting in the choir’s seat. The choir members however don’t mind me sitting in the corner, and I’m allowed to stay. I enjoy the singing, alternating between men and women. Luckily, there’s a printed liturgy, so I can join in. Almost all the songs are in Basque language. I quickly realize that you just must pronounce all the letters. Before the service begins, we all go outside with a candle.
The Easter candle is lit.
The priests light the Easter candle with flames from the firepit and we pass this fire to each other with our candles. When we go inside a little later, we extinguish our candles.
During the service we light our candles again. It’s beautifully symbolic.
During the service, there’s much singing, and the organ plays beautifully. After the Eucharist celebration this beautiful service is over and in the dark night, I walk with the other churchgoers through the quiet, steep street of St. Jean.
After passing through the city gate, I have to climb a muddy path. It’s very dark now and the light on my phone won’t turn on (or the light is too weak). That’s why I keep stumbling. Then I pass a wall with a window. Where am I? I don’t remember. Suddenly I see campers ahead of me. But where is our Frankia? I don’t recognize anything in the dark. In the distance there is a bright light. Dick turned on our outside light and that’s how I find my way home. Even though I’m full of the beautiful service, it’s late, 11:30 pm, so we quickly go to bed. I’m quite tired and, despite all the adrenaline, quickly fall asleep.
Sunday, April 20, the alarm goes off at 7:15 am. It’s Easter. I get up and shower, and then, after a sip of juice and a kiss from Dick, I leave. Fortunately, it’s light now, so I can see the path I have to take. It’s a strange feeling to walk against the flow of pilgrims. Some pilgrims climb up; others are standing in line at the bakery to buy something.
The cathédrale is still empty
And then I arrive at the cathedral. I go inside, but it’s very early. No one’s there yet. Only a few pilgrims pop in to ask for a blessing for the journey ahead. It’s quiet in the church, and it offers an opportunity to give thanks for being here. Then the church slowly fills up. The organ plays beautifully, and it’s a joy to behold.
The service is entirely in Basque and incomprehensible. But just like yesterday, there’s a printed version of the liturgy. The Scripture readings are written in French and I can read what will be said in Basque language. Just like yesterday, there’s a lot of singing. The priest is a different one and alone. Yesterday, there were three Asian priests. After the Eucharist celebration the service ends with a final chant and beautiful organ music. I walk back down the street to the parking lot. While I attended service,
Dick prepares everything for departure, including filling and dumping water. So, we can leave at 10 am.
Fortunately, it’s dry, and the sun even comes out briefly. We regularly see pilgrims walking on the road. Then the sky becomes cloudy and it starts to rain, the rain doesn’t stop. After Dax, we drive almost entirely on four-lane roads, the roads are quiet and we make good progress. We stop at Pissos, now there is a ban on staying overnight here. At least if you’re taller than 6 feet. We continue our journey to Saugnac-et-Muret. It’s raining, and this spot next to the sports field is not particularly appealing, so we continue. The four-lane road continues, and before 3 pm. we arrive in Barbezieux. At the parking lot next to a Leclerc supermarket, we park our Frankia.
RV parking Leclerc in Barbezieux.
Of course, the store is closed on Easter Sunday and we cannot go out shopping but staying inside the stove is good too. While Dick enjoys the Amstel Gold Race, I write down what we have experienced. Finally, I’m back up with writing our story. I hardly read anything this holiday.
The rest of the afternoon there’s too much rain to go out and we stay inside. Only late in the evening the rain stops. The temperature stays around 51 degrees Celsius. We really left the heat behind now. For dinner we have cauliflower with potatoes and meatballs. We talk about our next destination, necessary because our route is completely changed.
In the evening, we watch TV, Pope Franciscus wishes us a Happy Easter.
After a good night’s sleep in this peaceful spot, we get up at 7:30 am. We have breakfast and while Dick drains our grey and black water I walk to Leclerc. At this supermarket we can buy “Sel de Guerande with herbs”. Henk uses this salt in his pizzas, so he’ll be happy. Then we fill up with diesel at Leclerc. A good decision, because it’s even cheaper than in Spain. Then we leave.
The first part we drive comfortably on four-lane roads, but after Poitiers, we only drive on back roads. Especially as we pass through the towns, we realize it’s Easter Monday. Just like on Sundays the shops close at 12:30 pm. This makes it less busy outside.
Chateau Gontier view from the parking place.
At 2 pm we arrive at our destination, Chateau Gontier. There’s a huge car park next to the river where we can park. Even though there are at least 20 campers parked here, there’s still free spots. We’re lucky because the dark clouds have given way to blue sky and the sun is shining. The temperature here is 66 degrees and it’s warmer than in the south. Truly pleasant.
After drinking coffee, I want to walk around. There are some geocaches and I can also check if the kebab shop is open. The caches led me through the narrow streets and to a church.
Beautiful and serene crypt
The church is not special, but the crypt beneath the church is very beautiful and serene. I am back around 5 pm. In this town everything was closed. At 6:30 pm I walk to the kebab shop and order an “assiette mixte” with kebab and chicken. All ingredients are in separate containers and cannot mix together. The meal is really delicious and definitely worth returning for. Unfortunately, I cannot post a review, so I’ll have to do that later.
Tuesday, April 22, we get up at 7 am. We want to arrive in Cherbourg early. After breakfast, we washed the dishes. Once again, our countertop is full of glassware. Then we drive to the side where we can dump our grey and black water with clean water. It’s scary to connect our hose with the tap because there’s a huge spider next to it. Luckily, Dick isn’t bothered by huge spiders. Then we leave.
The road is busy. We realize that Easter is over. We drive in a convoy among the trucks. Our route north initially takes us on back roads. After Fougeres we reach a four-lane highway and the road becomes quieter. As soon as we arrive at the port in Cherbourg at 1 p.m., we see that there’s no place to park. Campers are already double-parked, and cars stay alongside. From experience, we know the cars won’t leave until 5 pm. We park in front of a camper and immediately find a nervous Englishman on our door. We have to leave because he can’t leave now. Although we tell him we’re only staying for a short time, he doesn’t trust it. He has to leave tonight to catch the ferry to England.
RV parking Cherbourg
After waiting for 45 minutes, a couple approach. They’re English and when I talk to them, they say that they are leaving. I yell at Dick, who’s wandering around somewhere, thankfully he responds immediately and a moment later he’s behind the wheel, and I’m outside with our pot of coffee in my hands (we just made coffee). As soon as Dick parked the Frankia in the spot vacated by the English, I can breathe again and we finally drink coffee. It’s not easy to get a spot here during the day.
Now we’re parked, Dick tackles the thousands of insects that gather at our window. Meanwhile, I walk into town and manage to make a reservation for tonight at our Thai restaurant, Tao Tao. When I am back, we walk together to the large Eleis shopping mall. It’s great wandering around together and we do some last-minute shopping before heading back. It’s now late afternoon. All the parking spaces that have become available are already taken.
At 6 pm we walk to the Thai restaurant. It’s still closed and we take a stroll through the old town. When we return at 6:30 pm the owner arrived, and we can have a seat inside. As always, the food is delicious, and the wine too. After dinner, we walk leisurely back to our Frankia. Summer is coming because the sun is still shining as we walk home. We watch some TV but don’t go to bed too late.
Wednesday, April 23, we get up at 7:30 am. It rained heavily last night, but thankfully it’s dry now. We have breakfast, wash our dishes, and then we drive to the dump to empty our gray and black water and fill up with fresh water. We leave at 9 am. Shortly after we stop at Leclerc to fill up with diesel, then we leave Cherbourg. The road isn’t busy, and even near Caen, where always are heavy traffic jams, we can drive on. On back roads we drive further to Rouen. Just before Rouen we unexpectedly come across a “Flux Libre” motorway. This barrier-free toll road has no toll booths; instead, your license plate is registered while you drive and you have three days to pay the toll. This afternoon we must register this stretch of the road to avoid a fine.
At exit 22 we leave this motorway and drive into the outskirts of Rouen.
On the road to Beauvais.
We drive further to Beauvais. Unfortunately, yesterday’s beautiful weather disappeared behind large clouds, and we’re regularly hit by rain showers. Fortunately, there are regular rapeseed fields along the road, which at least add color to the gloomy surroundings. Just before 3 pm, we park at our usual spot opposite the large shopping center in Beauvais. There are already two campers parked but there’s still plenty of room. We’ll search for the right spot (with TV reception) and then I’ll walk to the shopping center. We’ve decided to drive home tomorrow and I want to buy some French food. Drinking water is definitely on my list, as we’ve already used all our Spanish water. The next time the Frankia visits France is in May, when Dick will hopefully be on his way to Fisterre to pick me up. It’s good to know that he will have drinking water on board. We don’t walk to the city center and the magnificent cathedral because it’s raining regularly. But it’s cleared up by the time I step outside with a cart full of groceries. Now we could walk to the cathedral but it’s already 6 pm. and we don’t really feel like going out. We eat spaghetti, The taste of the sauce is a bit disappointing. But the sun, now shining brightly, makes up for it. We watch TV for the rest of the evening.
Thursday, April 24, we get up at 7 am. We are both wide awake. It’s cold in the camper, so we immediately turn on the heater, which, by the time we’ve showered, makes it pleasantly warm inside. After breakfast, we leave.
Today we want to go home and by taking turns driving we manage. After Lille we only drive on highways. Just before 4pm we turn into the street behind our house.
Parking behind our house
There is a free spot where we can park our Frankia. Great, now we can clean the outside tomorrow before taking the Frankia to storage. After we’ve cordoned off the parking lot with cones and talked with our neighbors, we start unloading. Then I clean everything inside and I’ll change our bedding. At 7:30 pm we “call it a day.” Tomorrow we will do the rest.
Friday, April 25, after cleaning the exterior of our Frankia, Dick takes the camper to our storage. Meanwhile, I store everything at home and load the first wash in our machine. We had a wonderful time together, with some unexpected highlights.